Postcard from Guatemala City

"No es seguro aqui.  Le esperaré," states the Guatemalan taxi driver as he drops me off in the center of Guatemala City. "This is my last day in Guatemala and I want to spend the afternoon visiting the historic sights," I reply in Spanish.  "I will be safe.  You don't need to wait for me."  He insists on returning in two hours to our drop-off spot and he does.  I want to explore the old colonial center of Guatemala City:  the Cathedral, the Palace, the Eternal Flame, and the engraved names of the "Disappeared",  those lost during Guatemala's 30-year civil war.  I am sad to find the "Eternal" Flame in front of the Palace is extinguished and the plaque nearby honoring the "Heroes of Peace" is covered with feces.  But I find the stones surrounding the Cathedral with the names of thousands of the Disappeared engraved on clean, white marble.  Why do I travel?  To honor the memories of heroes and innocents..  (July 2004)